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by Sally Fallon & Mary G. Enig,
Ph.D.
Cinderella's Dark Side
The propaganda that has created the soy sales miracle is
all the more remarkable because, only a few decades ago, the soybean
was considered unfit to eat - even in Asia. During the Chou Dynasty
(1134-246 BC) the soybean was designated one of the five sacred
grains, along with barley, wheat, millet and rice.
However, the pictograph for the soybean, which dates from
earlier times, indicates that it was not first used as a food; for
whereas the pictographs for the other four grains show the seed and
stem structure of the plant, the pictograph for the soybean
emphasizes the root structure. Agricultural literature of the period
speaks frequently of the soybean and its use in crop rotation.
Apparently the soy plant was initially used as a method of fixing
nitrogen.13
The soybean did not serve as a food until the
discovery of fermentation techniques, some time during the Chou
Dynasty. The first soy foods were fermented products like tempeh,
natto, miso and soy sauce.
At a later date, possibly in the 2nd century BC,
Chinese scientists discovered that a purée of cooked soybeans could
be precipitated with calcium sulfate or magnesium sulfate (plaster
of Paris or Epsom salts) to make a smooth, pale curd - tofu or bean
curd. The use of fermented and precipitated soy products soon spread
to other parts of the Orient, notably Japan and
Indonesia.
The Chinese did not eat unfermented soybeans as
they did other legumes such as lentils because the soybean contains
large quantities of natural toxins or "antinutrients". First among
them are potent enzyme inhibitors that block the action of trypsin
and other enzymes needed for protein digestion.
These inhibitors are large, tightly folded
proteins that are not completely deactivated during ordinary
cooking. They can produce serious gastric distress, reduced protein
digestion and chronic deficiencies in amino acid uptake. In test
animals, diets high in trypsin inhibitors cause enlargement and
pathological conditions of the pancreas, including
cancer.14
Soybeans also contain haemagglutinin, a
clot-promoting substance that causes red blood cells to clump
together.
Trypsin inhibitors and haemagglutinin are growth
inhibitors. Weanling rats fed soy containing these antinutrients
fail to grow normally. Growth-depressant compounds are deactivated
during the process of fermentation, so once the Chinese discovered
how to ferment the soybean, they began to incorporate soy foods into
their diets.
In precipitated products, enzyme inhibitors
concentrate in the soaking liquid rather than in the curd. Thus, in
tofu and bean curd, growth depressants are reduced in quantity but
not completely eliminated.
Soy also contains
goitrogens - substances that depress thyroid
function.
Additionally 99% a very large percentage of soy
is genetically modified and it also has one of the highest
percentages contamination by pesticides of any of our
foods.
Soybeans are high in phytic acid, present in the
bran or hulls of all seeds. It's a substance that can block the
uptake of essential minerals - calcium, magnesium, copper, iron and
especially zinc - in the intestinal tract.
Although not a household word, phytic acid has
been extensively studied; there are literally hundreds of articles
on the effects of phytic acid in the current scientific literature.
Scientists are in general agreement that grain- and legume-based
diets high in phytates contribute to widespread mineral deficiencies
in third world countries.15
Analysis shows that calcium, magnesium, iron and
zinc are present in the plant foods eaten in these areas, but the
high phytate content of soy- and grain-based diets prevents their
absorption.
The soybean has one of the highest phytate
levels of any grain or legume that has been studied,16 and the
phytates in soy are highly resistant to normal phytate-reducing
techniques such as long, slow cooking.17 Only a long period of
fermentation will significantly reduce the phytate content of
soybeans.
When precipitated soy products like tofu are
consumed with meat, the mineral-blocking effects of the phytates are
reduced.18 The Japanese traditionally eat a small amount of tofu or
miso as part of a mineral-rich fish broth, followed by a serving of
meat or fish.
Vegetarians who consume tofu and bean curd as a
substitute for meat and dairy products risk severe mineral
deficiencies. The results of calcium, magnesium and iron deficiency
are well known; those of zinc are less so.
Zinc is called the intelligence mineral because
it is needed for optimal development and functioning of the brain
and nervous system. It plays a role in protein synthesis and
collagen formation; it is involved in the blood-sugar control
mechanism and thus protects against diabetes; it is needed for a
healthy reproductive system.
Zinc is a key component in numerous vital
enzymes and plays a role in the immune system. Phytates found in soy
products interfere with zinc absorption more completely than with
other minerals.19 Zinc deficiency can cause a "spacey" feeling that
some vegetarians may mistake for the "high" of spiritual
enlightenment.
Milk drinking is given as the reason why
second-generation Japanese in America grow taller than their native
ancestors. Some investigators postulate that the reduced phytate
content of the American diet - whatever may be its other
deficiencies - is the true explanation, pointing out that both Asian
and Western children who do not get enough meat and fish products to
counteract the effects of a high phytate diet, frequently suffer
rickets, stunting and other growth problems.20
Soy Protein
Isolate: Not So Friendly
Soy processors have worked hard to get these
antinutrients out of the finished product, particularly soy protein
isolate (SPI) which is the key ingredient in most soy foods that
imitate meat and dairy products, including baby formulas and some
brands of soy milk.
SPI is not something you can make in your own
kitchen. Production takes place in industrial factories where a
slurry of soy beans is first mixed with an alkaline solution to
remove fiber, then precipitated and separated using an acid wash
and, finally, neutralized in an alkaline solution.
Acid washing in aluminum tanks leaches high
levels of aluminum into the final product. The resultant curds are
spray- dried at high temperatures to produce a high-protein powder.
A final indignity to the original soybean is high-temperature,
high-pressure extrusion processing of soy protein isolate to produce
textured vegetable protein (TVP).
Much of the trypsin inhibitor content can be
removed through high-temperature processing, but not all. Trypsin
inhibitor content of soy protein isolate can vary as much as
fivefold.21 (In rats, even low-level trypsin inhibitor SPI feeding
results in reduced weight gain compared to controls.22)
But high-temperature processing has the
unfortunate side-effect of so denaturing the other proteins in soy
that they are rendered largely ineffective.23 That's why animals on
soy feed need lysine supplements for normal growth.
Nitrites, which are potent carcinogens, are
formed during spray-drying, and a toxin called lysinoalanine is
formed during alkaline processing.24 Numerous artificial flavorings,
particularly MSG, are added to soy protein isolate and textured
vegetable protein products to mask their strong "beany" taste and to
impart the flavor of meat.25
In feeding experiments, the use of SPI increased
requirements for vitamins E, K, D and B12 and created deficiency
symptoms of calcium, magnesium, manganese, molybdenum, copper, iron
and zinc.26 Phytic acid remaining in these soy products greatly
inhibits zinc and iron absorption; test animals fed SPI develop
enlarged organs, particularly the pancreas and thyroid gland, and
increased deposition of fatty acids in the liver.27
Yet soy protein isolate and textured vegetable
protein are used extensively in school lunch programs, commercial
baked goods, diet beverages and fast food products. They are heavily
promoted in third world countries and form the basis of many food
giveaway programs.
In spite of poor results in animal feeding
trials, the soy industry has sponsored a number of studies designed
to show that soy protein products can be used in human diets as a
replacement for traditional foods.
An example is "Nutritional Quality of Soy Bean
Protein Isolates: Studies in Children of Preschool Age", sponsored
by the Ralston Purina Company.28 A group of Central American
children suffering from malnutrition was first stabilized and
brought into better health by feeding them native foods, including
meat and dairy products. Then, for a two-week period, these
traditional foods were replaced by a drink made of soy protein
isolate and sugar.
All nitrogen taken in and all nitrogen excreted
was measured in truly Orwellian fashion: the children were weighed
naked every morning, and all excrement and vomit gathered up for
analysis. The researchers found that the children retained nitrogen
and that their growth was "adequate", so the experiment was declared
a success.
Whether the children were actually healthy on
such a diet, or could remain so over a long period, is another
matter. The researchers noted that the children vomited
"occasionally", usually after finishing a meal; that over half
suffered from periods of moderate diarrhea; that some had upper
respiratory infections; and that others suffered from rash and
fever.
It should be noted that the researchers did not
dare to use soy products to help the children recover from
malnutrition, and were obliged to supplement the soy-sugar mixture
with nutrients largely absent in soy products - notably, vitamins A,
D and B12, iron, iodine and zinc.
Marketing The
Perfect Food
"Just imagine you could grow the perfect food.
This food not only would provide affordable nutrition, but also
would be delicious and easy to prepare in a variety of ways. It
would be a healthful food, with no saturated fat. In fact, you would
be growing a virtual fountain of youth on your back
forty."
The author is Dean Houghton, writing for The
Furrow,2 a magazine published in 12 languages by John Deere. "This
ideal food would help prevent, and perhaps reverse, some of the
world's most dreaded diseases. You could grow this miracle crop in a
variety of soils and climates. Its cultivation would build up, not
deplete, the land...this miracle food already exists... It's called
soy."
Just imagine. Farmers have been imagining - and
planting more soy. What was once a minor crop, listed in the 1913 US
Department of Agriculture (USDA) handbook not as a food but as an
industrial product, now covers 72 million acres of American
farmland. Much of this harvest will be used to feed chickens,
turkeys, pigs, cows and salmon. Another large fraction will be
squeezed to produce oil for margarine, shortenings and salad
dressings.
Advances in technology make it possible to
produce isolated soy protein from what was once considered a waste
product - the defatted, high-protein soy chips - and then transform
something that looks and smells terrible into products that can be
consumed by human beings. Flavorings, preservatives, sweeteners,
emulsifiers and synthetic nutrients have turned soy protein isolate,
the food processors' ugly duckling, into a New Age
Cinderella.
The new fairy-tale food has been marketed not so
much for her beauty but for her virtues. Early on, products based on
soy protein isolate were sold as extenders and meat substitutes - a
strategy that failed to produce the requisite consumer demand. The
industry changed its approach.
"The quickest way to gain product acceptability
in the less affluent society," said an industry spokesman, "is to
have the product consumed on its own merit in a more affluent
society."3 So soy is now sold to the upscale consumer, not as a
cheap, poverty food but as a miracle substance that will prevent
heart disease and cancer, whisk away hot flushes, build strong bones
and keep us forever young.
The competition - meat, milk, cheese, butter and
eggs - has been duly demonised by the appropriate government bodies.
Soy serves as meat and milk for a new generation of virtuous
vegetarians.
Marketing Costs
Money
This is especially when it needs to be bolstered
with "research", but there's plenty of funds available. All soybean
producers pay a mandatory assessment of one-half to one per cent of
the net market price of soybeans. The total - something like US$80
million annually4 - supports United Soybean's program to "strengthen
the position of soybeans in the marketplace and maintain and expand
domestic and foreign markets for uses for soybeans and soybean
products".
State soybean councils from Maryland, Nebraska,
Delaware, Arkansas, Virginia, North Dakota and Michigan provide
another $2.5 million for "research".5 Private companies like Archer
Daniels Midland also contribute their share. ADM spent $4.7 million
for advertising on Meet the Press and $4.3 million on Face the
Nation during the course of a year.6
Public relations firms help convert research
projects into newspaper articles and advertising copy, and law firms
lobby for favorable government regulations. IMF money funds soy
processing plants in foreign countries, and free trade policies keep
soybean abundance flowing to overseas destinations.
The push for more soy has been relentless and
global in its reach. Soy protein is now found in most supermarket
breads. It is being used to transform "the humble tortilla, Mexico's
corn-based staple food, into a protein-fortified 'super-tortilla'
that would give a nutritional boost to the nearly 20 million
Mexicans who live in extreme poverty".7 Advertising for a new
soy-enriched loaf from Allied Bakeries in Britain targets menopausal
women seeking relief from hot flushes. Sales are running at a
quarter of a million loaves per week.8
The soy industry hired Norman Robert Associates,
a public relations firm, to "get more soy products onto school
menus".9 The USDA responded with a proposal to scrap the 30 per cent
limit for soy in school lunches. The NuMenu program would allow
unlimited use of soy in student meals. With soy added to hamburgers,
tacos and lasagna, dieticians can get the total fat content below 30
per cent of calories, thereby conforming to government dictates.
"With the soy-enhanced food items, students are receiving better
servings of nutrients and less cholesterol and fat."
Soy milk has posted the biggest gains, soaring
from $2 million in 1980 to $300 million in the US last year.10
Recent advances in processing have transformed the gray, thin,
bitter, beany-tasting Asian beverage into a product that Western
consumers will accept - one that tastes like a milkshake, but
without the guilt.
Processing miracles, good packaging, massive
advertising and a marketing strategy that stresses the products'
possible health benefits account for increasing sales to all age
groups. For example, reports that soy helps prevent prostate cancer
have made soy milk acceptable to middle-aged men. "You don't have to
twist the arm of a 55- to 60-year-old guy to get him to try soy
milk," says Mark Messina. Michael Milken, former junk bond
financier, has helped the industry shed its hippie image with
well-publicized efforts to consume 40 grams of soy protein
daily.
America today, tomorrow the world. Soy milk
sales are rising in Canada, even though soy milk there costs twice
as much as cow's milk. Soybean milk processing plants are sprouting
up in places like Kenya.11 Even China, where soy really is a poverty
food and whose people want more meat, not tofu, has opted to build
Western-style soy factories rather than develop western grasslands
for grazing animals.12
FDA Health Claim
Challenged
On October 25, 1999 the US Food and Drug
Administration (FDA) decided to allow a health claim for products
"low in saturated fat and cholesterol" that contain 6.25 grams of
soy protein per serving. Breakfast cereals, baked goods, convenience
food, smoothie mixes and meat substitutes could now be sold with
labels touting benefits to cardiovascular health, as long as these
products contained one heaping teaspoon of soy protein per 100-gram
serving.
The best marketing strategy for a product that
is inherently unhealthy is, of course, a health claim.
"The road to FDA approval," writes a soy
apologist, "was long and demanding, consisting of a detailed review
of human clinical data collected from more than 40 scientific
studies conducted over the last 20 years. Soy protein was found to
be one of the rare foods that had sufficient scientific evidence not
only to qualify for an FDA health claim proposal but to ultimately
pass the rigorous approval process."29
The "long and demanding" road to FDA approval
actually took a few unexpected turns. The original petition,
submitted by Protein Technology International, requested a health
claim for isoflavones, the estrogen-like compounds found plentifully
in soybeans, based on assertions that "only soy protein that has
been processed in a manner in which isoflavones are retained will
result in cholesterol lowering".
In 1998, the FDA made the unprecedented move of
rewriting PTI's petition, removing any reference to the
phyto-estrogens and substituting a claim for soy protein - a move
that was in direct contradiction to the agency's regulations. The
FDA is authorized to make rulings only on substances presented by
petition.
The abrupt change in direction was no doubt due
to the fact that a number of researchers, including scientists
employed by the US Government, submitted documents indicating that
isoflavones are toxic.
The FDA had also received, early in 1998, the
final British Government report on phytoestrogens, which failed to
find much evidence of benefit and warned against potential adverse
effects.30
Even with the change to soy protein isolate, FDA
bureaucrats engaged in the "rigorous approval process" were forced
to deal nimbly with concerns about mineral blocking effects, enzyme
inhibitors, goitrogenicity, endocrine disruption, reproductive
problems and increased allergic reactions from consumption of soy
products.31
One of the strongest letters of protest came
from Dr Dan Sheehan and Dr Daniel Doerge, government researchers at
the National Center for Toxicological Research.32 Their pleas for
warning labels were dismissed as unwarranted.
"Sufficient scientific evidence" of soy's
cholesterol-lowering properties is drawn largely from a 1995
meta-analysis by Dr James Anderson, sponsored by Protein
Technologies International and published in the New England Journal
of Medicine.33
A meta-analysis is a review and summary of the
results of many clinical studies on the same subject. Use of
meta-analyses to draw general conclusions has come under sharp
criticism by members of the scientific community.
"Researchers substituting meta-analysis for more
rigorous trials risk making faulty assumptions and indulging in
creative accounting," says Sir John Scott, President of the Royal
Society of New Zealand. "Like is not being lumped with like. Little
lumps and big lumps of data are being gathered together by various
groups."34
There is the added temptation for researchers,
particularly researchers funded by a company like Protein
Technologies International, to leave out studies that would prevent
the desired conclusions. Dr Anderson discarded eight studies for
various reasons, leaving a remainder of twenty-nine.
The published report suggested that individuals
with cholesterol levels over 250 mg/dl would experience a
"significant" reduction of 7 to 20 per cent in levels of serum
cholesterol if they substituted soy protein for animal protein.
Cholesterol reduction was insignificant for individuals whose
cholesterol was lower than 250 mg/dl.
In other words, for most of us, giving up steak
and eating vegieburgers instead will not bring down blood
cholesterol levels. The health claim that the FDA approved "after
detailed review of human clinical data" fails to inform the consumer
about these important details.
Research that ties soy to positive effects on
cholesterol levels is "incredibly immature", said Ronald M. Krauss,
MD, head of the Molecular Medical Research Program and Lawrence
Berkeley National Laboratory.35 He might have added that studies in
which cholesterol levels were lowered through either diet or drugs
have consistently resulted in a greater number of deaths in the
treatment groups than in controls - deaths from stroke, cancer,
intestinal disorders, accident and suicide.36
Cholesterol-lowering measures in the US have
fuelled a $60 billion per year cholesterol-lowering industry, but
have not saved us from the ravages of heart disease.
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